Lure Makers Need A Quality Clear Coat
You might be making fishing lures for a hobby, producing them for profit, or both. Whether you are making lures for fun or as part of a business, using quality lure making supplies can be the difference between an OK result and an excellent outcome.
Choosing the proper clear coat to use on lures is important. A clear coat has more functionality than just providing a shiny final finish. So what should you look for when deciding on a clear coat to add to your stock of lure making supplies?
For fishing lures, the main criteria are that the clear coat is compatible with the base coat used on the lure, that it's hard enough to resist damage from sharp fish teeth, flexible enough to remain adhered if the lure is dented (especially important with wood lures), resistant to yellowing and discoloration over time, waterproof so it seals wood lures away from moisture, and easy to work with.
What to Look for in a Lure Clear Coat
| Compatibility | Works with the base coat already on the lure without causing it to run or lift |
| Hardness | Resists scoring and scratching from sharp fish teeth |
| Flexibility | Stays adhered if a wood lure dents or swells from moisture |
| Clarity | Resists yellowing and discoloration over time |
| Waterproofing | Seals wood lures away from moisture intrusion |
Common Clear Coat Types for Lure Making
"Clear coat" is a generic term for a clear, or lightly pigmented, finish applied directly over a substrate such as wood, metal, or plastic. It's also applied over base coats to protect the color, add "depth" to the appearance, or build enough film thickness to allow for sanding and polishing. Clear coats prolong the useful life of any surface they're applied to. The three most common types used in lure making are lacquer, varnish, and polyurethane.
| Lacquer | A tree resin or synthetic resin dissolved in alcohol, popular for sealing wood furniture. Clear lacquer can only go over lacquer base coats, since solvents in the clear lacquer will cause non-lacquer base coats to run. It gives a rich, warm, scratch-resistant finish on deep-toned wood, but it can yellow over time, distort the lure's base coat color, and be tricky to apply. Lacquer is also thin, brittle, prone to denting, and can dry out and crack over long periods. |
| Varnish | Similar to lacquer, a resin dissolved in a liquid that forms a hard, clear, shiny surface when dry. Varnish peels and cracks or bubbles easily if not applied properly, isn't as tough or water/chemical-resistant as lacquer, needs more coats to reach the same thickness, takes longer to dry, and also yellows with time. Water-based varnish has the advantage of working over paints and being brushable. |
| Polyurethane | Essentially plastic in liquid form until cured. The most popular choice for serious lure fabricators because of its film hardness, scratch and dent resistance (especially helpful with balsa wood), long-term durability, resistance to yellowing, and user-friendliness. Its flexibility keeps the clear coat adhered even if wood swells from moisture or the lure gets dented, and it can be applied to plastic, wood, and metal components alike. |
Water-Based vs. Oil-Based Polyurethane
Polyurethane clear coat comes in water-based and oil-based versions, in finishes ranging from satin to glossy. Water-based polyurethane is often preferred for its low odor and toxicity. It goes on clear without darkening the base coat color, doesn't yellow over time the way oil-based versions can, and dries much faster, in some cases up to three times faster. Oil-based polyurethane dents and peels more easily than water-based, though some water-based versions scratch more easily. On the safety side, a quality water-based polyurethane clear coat has significantly lower VOCs (up to 50% less) than an oil-based one.
Polyurethane clear coats are available in versions that can be brushed or sprayed, and dipping lures is a common application method that works especially well with polyurethane. Water-based polyurethane applies in much thinner coats than oil-based, and an unlimited number of coats can typically be applied, while only a couple of oil-based layers can go on before scratching or chipping becomes a problem. Polyurethane clear coats also come in 1K (one-part) or 2K (two-part, requires mixing) versions. 1K polyurethane is more user-friendly since there's no mixing required, which saves time and hassle.
Why DiamondFinish Clear Works Well for Lure Making
For lure making, KBS Coatings offers DiamondFinish Clear, a moisture cured, crystal clear, one-part urethane clear coat that's UV stable, durable, and extremely tough. It performs in demanding environments without yellowing, cracking, or peeling. Thanks to its Advanced Cross-Linked Coatings Technology, it holds up especially well for fishing lures, and that same technology is what makes the coating both flexible and durable. DiamondFinish Clear can be used over any fully cured base coat.
DiamondFinish Clear works on any type of lure surface, including jig heads. It can be tinted with color when desired, and it's also well suited to suspending glitter in your finishes. Because it's a single component (1K) coating, there's no self-mixing of two parts required, and it can be sprayed, brushed, or used to dip lures directly. If brushed, the coating self-levels, leaving a smooth surface without brush marks. For best performance, DiamondFinish Clear should be thoroughly stirred, both in circles and from top to bottom, before use. Watch the video below for a demonstration of proper stirring technique.
Storing DiamondFinish Clear Between Uses
DiamondFinish Clear is a moisture cured coating, meaning it cures by reacting with water vapor in the air. The higher the humidity, the quicker it cures. Because of that, it's important to remember it can be contaminated in the storage container by exposure to air or by moisture dripping off a wet lure. If you're dipping lures, pour off a working amount into a small jar and reseal the main container right away. Air left in the can can cause DiamondFinish Clear to begin hardening before you're ready to use it again.
To prevent that, KBS Paint Saver is a useful addition to your lure making supplies. It contains Argon and Nitrogen gases, which are heavier than air and 100% dry. Spraying these gases into the container displaces the humid air, so no moisture-laden air is left in the can to prematurely cure and harden the coating. See this video for a demonstration of properly opening and preserving a can of DiamondFinish Clear.
Tip: Always reseal your DiamondFinish Clear container immediately after pouring off a working amount, and store it upright in a cool, dry location away from direct sunlight to maximize shelf life.
Quality lure making supplies are essential to producing quality lures. Used by hobbyists and professionals alike, DiamondFinish Clear preserves, protects, and beautifies your lures, making it an important addition to any lure maker's toolkit.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can DiamondFinish Clear be used over any base coat on a lure?
Yes, as long as the base coat is fully cured. DiamondFinish Clear is compatible with all fully cured base coats and won't cause them to lift or run.
Will DiamondFinish Clear yellow over time like lacquer or varnish?
No. DiamondFinish Clear is UV stable and formulated to remain crystal clear without yellowing, cracking, or peeling, even in tough outdoor and water-exposed environments.
How do I keep DiamondFinish Clear from hardening in the can between uses?
Pour off only the amount you need into a small jar, reseal the main container immediately, and use KBS Paint Saver to displace humid air inside the can with dry Argon and Nitrogen gas.
Can DiamondFinish Clear be applied by brushing, spraying, or dipping?
Yes. It's a single component (1K) coating that can be brushed, sprayed, or used to dip lures directly, and it self-levels when brushed to leave a smooth finish without brush marks.